It is 97% Naphtha and 3% cobalt compounds. If it does then try putting a topcoat on top of what you have now, I use about 1/2 a capful of japan drier to a cup of finish so it you are only mixing up a couple of teaspoons to test don’t use a lot of japan drier. For a solid background in the basics, I'd recommend Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishes" and Jeff Jewitt's book "Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing." But these older books, and even some that aren't so old, have incorrect information in them. Shop Crown 32-fl oz Slow to Dissolve Japan Drier in the Paint Thinners department at Lowe's.com. I have used pure tung oil as a grain enhancer since it tends to not Contrary to popular belief a binder is not necessary for making a pigmented stain that is going to be wiped or sprayed on and then all the excess wiped off, it just makes it easier for use. It is especially effective in highly humid or cool weather conditions. - Case of: 1 $37.52. Never heard of it and couldn't find out much about it except that it is apparently used to cool tranformers and fill shock absorbers? Use of the drier also increases the gloss of the product and should be tested on a sample if a sheen level needs to be matched. Reply. On a recent project I spent two days working at getting the color I wanted. Thanks so much. The slower drying time of Japan color makes it ideal for projects where lap marks might otherwise be difficult to avoid, however it also means that the stain must be allowed to dry for a very long time before topcoating, to avoid picking the color back up into the topcoat. Metal soaps are lipophilic so they integrate well with the alkyd […] The first Japanese Formula One driver was Hiroshi Fushida.He qualified for the 1975 Dutch Grand Prix, but a blown engine prevented him from starting the race. I also spent a day at one of ML's finishing (glazing) classes and though I didn't expect to come out with perfect results, I found the end product pretty poor. This product speeds the drying time in between The following formula should yield about 1 quart of oil stain. Buy some pigment form the art store and mull it with mineral spirits and rewet as necessary. As an aside, during the summer two years ago I had floor guys redo my oak flooring. If the wood is very dry use the linseed/pine tar/turpentine mix for the first coat or two with a week between coats, this will let the wood soak up a max amount of the boat soup. The MSDS at paintdocs only lists mineral spirits (53%), odorless mineral spirits (5%), and titanium dioxide (TiO2). ADD A TESTIMONIALFIND A RETAILER. I have Flexners' book but I find it's geared more towards hobbyists than anything else. 100% lead-free. I would also recommend oiling the stock with regular linseed / turpentine for a few days to saturate, then 2-4 applications of the Japan drier mix to harden and seal the stock. Yeah the label instructions on the Japan drier talk about that it helps to accelerate the drying ability of oil-based paint, oil-based enamels, varnish and polyurethane. Worse I didn't really get the information I wanted to help improve the results. There are no bad habits to break, no ego's to contend with - just those with a deep desire to learn all they can. solvent naphtha - 87% Not a problem it seems. Japan dryer usually doesn't have the right compounds in it for tung oil. Aliphatic can be totally dried out with the aid of heat leaving only trace oily characteristics if their particular boiling point profile is such to allow this. If it then can be sprayed over minutes after application in those circumstances without decreased adhesion then it's not a matter of absolute "bone dryness" being needed but high temps and good air flow to achieve what’s desired. The alkyd/Blo/acrylic or other will act as the binder, and keep the otherwise dry colorant/solvent that might wipe off in place, but it's not necessary, just easier. In the end I got it, but it was a seven step process of sealers, dyes, and an off-the-shelf stain to get there. From contributor G: The ones I used acted as I have stated. Add a drying agent such as Japanese drier or Cobalt Drier. Heavy Naphthenic Petroleum Oil 6 - 9% This means they need to absorb oxygen from the air in order to solidify. Free shipping for many products! Share. Only 18 left in stock - … CALCIUM OCTOATE (CAS 27253-33-4) - Calcium being an auxiliary drier, has little drying action in itself but is very useful in combination with active driers. I'm in that stage where I'd like to know a lot more about finishing so I can be more flexible. I have no idea how effective they are in an application like wood finishing where a significant portion of the oil is absorbed into the wood and its oxidation is intrinsically slower as a result. I got info (finally), from the best sources -- Michael Dresdner and Jeff Jewitt. I just … Minwax does contain an oil-base ingredient that dries through -linking-film-formation oxidation. However, if the stain is not drying properly, or not quick enough, you can add some japan drier, but NO MORE THAN 1/2 Ounce. It is especially effective in highly humid or cool weather conditions. Follow answered Jul 25 '18 at 20:42. But the MSDS contains this warning in Section 7 - "To minimize the possibility of spontaneous combustion: control the accumulation of overspray; soak wiping rags and waste immediately after use in a water-filled, closed metal container; air dry filters outside, far from any combustible material and separated by bricks or other non-combustible spacers; dispose of all contaminated materials and waste properly." This is normally called popping the pores by making them dark and also adding some color to the wood surface that the dye is not capable of doing since it will not hold on to the hard lighting structure of the exposed sides of the pores/cells in open grain woods such as oak/mahog./ash/etc. I'm also not recommending you put water base over a freshly stained surface, that will require a complete dry if you’re not using shellac barrier. It is a metallic salt, usually cobalt, that acts as a catalyst aiding in chemical linking of the molecules. So my questions are: what can you tell us about Naphthenic oil? Improve this answer. If you look at the MSDS for min-wax stains you'll see it's no more than oil soluble dyes and micro pigments in an aliphatic and aromatic solvent blend. If you want the stain to dry a little quicker, you can add some additional japan drier, but no more than 1/2 ounce. It seems to harden the final product a bit, but I don't know that for sure. A cobalt dryer is required. Grumbacher Japan Drier Medium for Oil Paintings, 2-1/2 Oz. Spirit Stain I thought it was very odd that the MSDS stated the stain contains non-drying, petroleum distillate oils. Formula You can find some good information is some of the older books. Try mixing a little bit of your minwax stain with some japan drier and put it in a glass and see if it dries. You do not need to add Japan drier to this formula because the japan color and boiled linseed oil contain drier. It's not nonsense to add a little drier to the stain to help it dry faster. This is necessary because the oil dye which really is not an oil soluble dye, dissolves much better/completely in coal tar derivatives (lacquer solvents) for example. Condition: New. May your success be a happy endeavor and lifelong satisfaction of creating beautiful wood finishes. I'd encourage folks to look up the information I post along with any other. But you can't apply a hand applied finish over them because they will dissolve and smear; you have to use a spray applied finish over them. Klean-Strip® Japan Drier. You are more than welcome to try this come summer on a nice hot day of 80 or more then test for adhesion the next day or so. Highly Refined Naphthenic Oil 6 - 9%. I wanted “spin-dry only” and found that 標準 …hyoujun + 脱水 … dassui did the trick. To ease frustration and help you get your laundry done right in no time, check out the following list of characters that are commonly found on these machines. The cost of electricity to run it would be quite expensive so most people hang their laundry outside. $19.20. Looking at the evaporation rates of the three solvents in minwax stain I see nothing denoting excessively slow (take's days or weeks to dry) culprits, if there is a culprit for slow drying it definitely is the cold temps and low or no hot air airflow! Majic 30679 Accelerator Hardener, 1/2 Pint, Clear 4.6 out of 5 stars 50. Description: Japan Drier is a special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerates the drying of oil based paint and varnish. #4 — Daiso Japan Diamond Cleaner. When it dried they put on the finish. They are produced by reactions of metallic salts with organic or synthetic acids, dissolved in a hydrocarbon solvent, to form a metal soap. So yeah probably not a good idea, would probably do more harm than good to try to use it with my stain. Jar, #5572 4.1 out of 5 stars 11. That's why the stain dries slowly and even more so when the temperature is cool and the humidity is high. What use to be the normal was a internship/apprenticeship for people interested in this trade (and others) to learn from a master finisher (one with decades of experience) on how to mix colors/color theory as applies to decorative and protective coatings, the makeup of and formulating, and application of all the products found in the shops at that time as well as the repair and care of such. But doesn't mention stain at all. Certainly not anything you could get with Minwax, and it shows. Although in the industry aliphatic's are considered oily feeling and are made by fractional distillation of petroleum, they are not oily in the sense that cooking oils or even car oils are. Often used by artists for speeding up the the dry time of oil paintings. $19.20. It's possible the drier might cause the stain to dry too quick and not be absorbed as deep into the wood. When you buy water-reducible dyes you may not know if you're getting basic dyes that fade fast or plain acid dyes that are better but still not as good as the metalized dyes. If you add too much drier, the stain will not work properly. These appliances can be difficult to master in Japan, where the controls are almost always in Japanese only. Is it a drying oil? Now this is not unusual at all it happens quite frequently, (the discontinuance of products). Washing Machine The Sunnyside® Japan Paint Drier speeds the drying time of most oil-based paints. Adding more japan color will start to make the stain too thick and it will be difficult to apply. All I had readily available at the time for a table top finish was varnish. Istanbul, Berlin, London, Paris, New York City and many more Use this product with oil-based paints, oil-based enamels and varnishes By this I mean no one can hold you captive to their material offerings. They applied minwax stain, then within an hour went over it with sealcoat. The cobalt in Japan drier enhances the ability of the oils to absorb the oxygen molecule. None of the distillates in min-wax are such that would cause this. Est. You can also spray over it quicker than if you had a slower drying binder in it. Pint. Daniel Tambasco Painting MA It's just a matter of time before the stain finally dries, but I have found that if I put a piece in the direct sun on a good warm day it will usually dry good in about 3 hours. Veejay says: October 27, 2016 at 11:50 am. The longer a varnish surface stays wet to the touch, the greater the possibility that dirt and dust are going to land on the surface and stick. Yuki Tsunoda is currently racing for AlphaTauri.. Former drivers. Speeds the drying time between coats, even in damp or cool weather. Oil dyes are available in two main types - dry powder which you dissolve yourself or in liquid form such as keystones. On large jobs there’s lots of surface to cover. It never really worked out and new samples/catalogs/and finish options all had to be worked out all over again. Klean Strip Japan Drier Drying Accelerant 1 pt. NGR Stain See NGR Dye under Dyes, below. It's not nonsense to add a little drier to the stain to help it dry faster. You control how they work and are applied and dried and used overall - not some chemist or tech. Japan drier should be used in very small quantities since excess use can cause a darkening of the product or even cracking. Grumbacher Japan Drier Medium for Oil Paintings, 2-1/2 Oz. Japan Drier is a blend of ingredients that speeds the drying time of oil-based paint and varnish, even in damp or cool weather. Use what professionals use to speed up drying when they need to apply several coats on the same a day - Klean-Strip® Japan Drier. Its special blend of lead-free drying agents accelerates the drying ability of oil-based paint, oil-based enamels, varnish and polyurethane. Tom Tom. Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, Here's a highly informative, in-depth look at oil-based stain chemistry, along with some de-bunking of the conventional wisdom concerning application windows. A special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerate the drying ability of oil-based paint and varnish. The productions stains professional finishers often use (e.g., WoodSong II) don't have such a strong binder and can dry much faster since they don't need time to crosslink. May 18, 2010, KnowledgeBase: Finishing: General Wood Finishing. Cobalt compounds are considered very toxic things. Drier should be added only to the amount of product that is to be used. The people I loved training more than all others were those who really were just normal people with a fascination with the art and were eager to learn and had just good common sense and teach-ability. Japan drier is a common lay term and generic product name for any oil drying agent that can be mixed with drying oils such as boiled linseed oil and alkyd resin paints to speed up "drying". SDS. All pigmented stains do need a binder to attach the pigments to the wood. There is an excellent article by Charles S. Tumors and Marion F. Mecklenburg in the Review in Conservation Journal #6 2005 on the whole subject of driers and oil finishes. Its special blend of lead-free drying agents accelerates the drying ability of oil-based paint, oil-based enamels, varnish and polyurethane. There are other compounds that speed the drying of oils. So rather than use Dawn/peroxide mixture, I decided to just try Dawn by itself from the pump dispenser. or paint stores line Porter Paints. But in butyl acetate/acetone/methanol/toluene/mek/etc, it would be very bright and totally dissolved so the name oil soluable is really a misnomer. Question Forum Responses View online and pick-up in store. Effective for damp or cool weather conditions to … It contains a special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerate the drying of oil-based enamel and varnish and is especially effective when weather is damp or cool. Lead is one of them but because of its toxicity is no longer used as such. Minwax uses these dyes from diff mfg. Last, stain manufactures add a drying agent to the formula to help it dry quicker. For example: if you took dry oil soluble powders and put a tiny amount in MS or Naphtha (VMP), the color would be very slight and undisolved residual would sink to the bottom, only a small percentage dissolves. Japan Drier is not generally recommended for fine arts applications because it has a tendency to yellow and darken oil colors over long periods of time. They have no oily presence in them when rubbed between your fingers, nor do they leave any oily presence on that which they are applied to. Features: Can be used with oil-based paints, enamels, varnishes, and stains. Japan drier is a 'surface' drier. $28.98. As an example, a lot of the finishing books say that water-reducible dyes are the most lightfast (resistant to fading), but that information is out of date. (Finishing Forum) Japan drier is a liquid that speeds the drying of oil finishes such as varnish and oil paints. Also adding drier ensures that the product will dry. And when you buy water-reducible dyes you may not know if you're getting basic dyes that fade fast or plain acid dyes that are better but still not as good as the metalized dyes. To many different additives to know for sure to make a blank statement here. Boat varnishes use Japan drier also perhaps because they are often varnishing outdoors in poor weather conditions and dirty environments. This is sold commercially under the name Japan drier. Hendrik Varju contacted me and told me that the proper proportion is 7 to 10 mililitres of Japan Drier per litre of pure tung oil. Since I didn’t have much experience with varnishes, I couldn’t tell whether it did any good or not. Use this product with oil-based paints, oil-based enamels and varnishes. So it can promote something to dry slower. So past min-wax, or others color offerings, I urge you to study color theory as applies to our industry, the components that make up glazes/stains/dyes/coatings/and all else that pertains to this artful craft. The dryer is called "japan drier" available in most paint dept. My conclusion was, I don't need this hassle, and with MLC offering the Minwax colors in a fast drying stain, I don't have to put up with it. Bruce Hamilton replies: I’ve been familiar with Japan driers since I started my finishing career thirty years ago. A number of other topics have been introduced in this thread as well and I think it's always a good idea to research the information you find to verify the accuracy and learn more if you're interested. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Sunnyside Japan Drier at the best online prices at eBay! Klean Strip Pjd40 1 Pint Japan Drier,No PJD40 , Wm Barr,PK6. Normally the reasons for using it doesn't apply to siding stain. It is 97% Naphtha and 3% cobalt compounds. Japan Drier. If you want the stain to dry a little quicker, you can add some additional Japan drier, but no more than 1/2 ounce. Current drivers. In vehicles that show poor tolerance for lead, calcium can replace part of the lead with a larger amount of calcium to prevent the precipitation of the lead & maintain drying efficiency. List price $48.49 Save 21%. While I've used Japan drier from time to time over the years I've never used it with stain. I'm not sure if it's an oil-base alkyd, a drying oil like linseed oil, or a combination of both. TiO2 isn't listed in all the MSDS they have for oil-base stains because some of the Minwax stains are colored with drying oil like linseed oil, or a combination of both. If they list the CAS#'s I can look up the oils you refer to for better in site, off the top of my head N oils can be both drying and non drying this will depend on where the fractionation points are in the distillation and what the intended use may be for the product. The brand of drier I have is light red and once you mix it its hard to tell a difference. SITE MAP. Therefore if you plan on using water-base over such there really is no need for it being your first coat unless you know that your product will behave strangely if you don't barrier coat it with shellac. Any first coat of WB should be put on thinned out for best adhesion. Reduced dry time also reduces the likelihood of dust getting into the finish. Japan Drier works well; that's why they sell it at the home centers and paint stores (though it's most often used for oil-base paints but the chemistry is equivalent for oil-base stain) and why I recommended it. Usually this is some type of metallic drier like cobalt. Use what professionals use to speed up drying when they need to apply several coats on the same a day — Klean-Strip® Japan Drier. Remember, the japan color and boiled linseed oil already contain driers, therefore you do not need to add any japan drier. At Johnson’s Paint store in Boston, where I purchased my varnishes, it was recommended that I put some Japan drier in my varnish. - Case of: 1 $37.52. Absolutely. This is why I write to get people to learn how to make their own glazes/stains/dyes/fillers/etc. As the binder in the stain cross-links, it becomes durable enough to withstand the solvents in the finish that's applied over it. There are lots of myths in wood finishing, outdated information, and other assorted mis-information to be found. Petroleum distillate - 0-3% Varnishes and paints containing oils such as linseed and tung dry by oxidation. If Minwax adds cobalt to their stain why would it not be ok to goose it a bit a with Japan Dryer? For example Sam Allen's "The Wood Finisher's Handbook" has some recipes for making your own stains and his book "Classic Finishing Techniques" has lots of info on natural and chemical stains. In fact the less you know when you first become interested in this art the better off you are if you can find someone to train you. Grumbacher Japan Drier is a reliable alkyd resin-based liquid siccative intended for use by sign painters, artisans, and craftspeople. These can be force dried like in the factories or in a pinch dried carefully with a heat gun hair drier if need be to bone dryness in minutes. Stoddard solvent - 0-12%. I'm not singling out any individual with this remark. It is especially effective in highly humid or cool weather conditions. Therein lies the problem, you can get to a point where you realize something off-the-shelf isn't going to give you the results you want, but how do you get them? However, as I was glancing down the list of ingredients I noticed the Aliphatics, didn't see any Aromatics and then something which I do not understand: It can be purchased in art supply stores, some paint stores and some mail order woodworking supply houses. Majic 30679 Accelerator Hardener, 1/2 Pint, Clear 4.6 out of 5 stars 50. Adding Japan drier to a drying or semi-drying oil affect's the oil in this way - the drier is mainly cobalt which has an affinity for oxygen and brings oxygen to the oil to hasten it's drying, it is usually a surface dry it gives and not a through dry, for that you need an intermediate dryer like aluminum or a combination of both. This seems to be something that comes up all too often on the forum. Delivery Mon, Jul 27 - Tue, Jul 28. Thanks for all that information - very informative. For a clear pine, this is not necessary nor for other woods like maple/birch/mahogany/walnut/oak/ask/etc. If that is so, I would rather you look for a new product that does not do so and save the time and expense, but that's up to you. Apply to the wood let the MS evaporate and you will see that it looks just like one with a binder. Painters use them for the same purpose and probably much more commonly than furniture makers. The name refers to " japanning ", a term for the use of drying oils as an imitation or … This product speeds the drying time between coasts of finish, even in damp or cool weather. On a scale 1 to 6, cobalt compounds are considered a 5 according to the Scorecard (www.scorecard.org), a pollution information site. I thought about using my favorite homemade stain remover, but wasn’t sure about the peroxide on this color shirt. Varnishes and paints containing oils such as linseed and tung dry by oxidation. The finisher tried many other products to come up with the same look and usable techniques he developed to apply them. If you add too much drier, the stain will not work properly. Since drying time is reduced, leveling is also reduced and brush marks may show more. Jar, #5572 4.1 out of 5 stars 11. In either case, there are no drying or semi-drying oils present unless you have yourself added them, if not then no oxidative reaction will take place nor quickening of the drying procedure. Use what professionals use to speed up drying when they need to apply several coats on the same a day - Klean-Strip® Japan Drier. If Japan drier is added to a can of product, gelling may occur, even if the can is sealed. Japan Drier- Pint. From this statement we can determine the stain must contain an oil-base binder because spontaneous combustion occurs when heat is generated during the autoxidation process. A special blend of lead-free drying agents that accelerates the drying ability of oil-based paint and varnish. In Florida I often sprayed over minwax when the customer insisted on that product within minutes after applying when temps were in the 80-90's without ever experiencing faulty adhesion. It really doesn't make sense to me and I don't believe it's correct.
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